@StrikeEagleIII thanks for your response. I have a switch between the battery and the voltage regulator for convenience so that I don’t have to physically unplug to kill power. Not sure if this is actually the problem though as I am having problems directly powering the TX1 (tested with XT60 to DC plug with no switch). Possibly a different issue because the plug is of a different make to the other one (although same dimensions). I was also happy to live with the double press until it it began to power off. I believe it is losing power rather than shutting down but can’t be sure. I don’t ever see it shutting down and the lEDs are off.
Is there a recommended wire gauge for battery set up?
Never mind. I just thought to look at the gauge used for the developer power supply (doh!). It uses 16AWG. So I’m guessing that would be the recommended (min).
Just tested resistance again and I can see now that it was not the switch creating the 4 ohm resistance but rather it is the voltage regulator. Does anyone know if this is the cause of the problem or not? I wouldn’t have thought so but running out of ideas.
In case anyone has a similar problem to mine the issue was something to do with the amount of draw coming off the power rail. Turns out that sometimes when the motors that I am using on my robot are used the TX1 shuts off. I tested this by putting the motors on a separate power supply, now it is fine.
Still haven’t solved the double press issue. I can live with it but would still like to solve…
I also had this problem. When out robot’s motors would start the voltage drop spike would shut off the jetson. We added a voltage converter/regulator (specifically Amazon.com), set it to 19V (from a 3 cell LiPo) and it needed more button presses to work, but would normally eventually turn on. At some point it stopped turning on in this method. We found that using a DC to AC converter, such as http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-110V-Power-Inverter-Ports/dp/B003Q54V88, and then used the power supply that the jetson came with. The converter we used also needed the regulator due to the voltage drops from the motors.
Hi K4RL,
You can try changing C36 to 0.1uF.
For my robot I use a LiPo 4S 30C 5Ah battery. I can power motors and Jetson TX1 without any kind of problems.
The Jetson receives 12V voltage by a DCDC regulator normally used in automotive:
Despite its price it is very reliable and furthermore it is fully programmable.
To remove spikes I made a CLC filter to be sure that the DCDC receives good inputs:
http://myzharbot.robot-home.it/blog/electronics/power-distribution-board-v1-0/
About power button, also I need to hit it twice to power on the TX1 when I use battery
Finally for power wiring I use AWG12 silicone wires, they are very flexible, well protected and can drain up to 85A… really much, but more is better than less…
Walt
If you need more power than a 4S will provide check out one of these.DCDC-USB-200, Intelligent DC-DC converter with USB interface They work very well. I’m using 2 6s in parallel. Most of your 6s batts now come as 2 3s with two wires to connect together to make them a 6S with serial wiring. However you can also use those to connect two 6S batteries together in series or parallel. I tried SLA they wouldn’t allow enough current draw for my bot so I went to the 6S lipos. The DC-DC200 also has some signal inputs and outputs an app to set up the current and voltage cut-offs etc. You can signal the TX1 to preform orderly shutdown when batt gets low for instance. And in an environment with motors there will be noise on the lines and this is an additional filter from that as my motor controllers get the full voltage from the batts which isolates them a bit. My bot has 5 motors plus the TX1 and several cameras it can suck down some power. They also have a nice little enclosure for the board. Its not expensive. Makes it easy to mount. Beware of the cheaper lipo packs. I went through several then bought a Eflyte pack. Cost a little more but its already outlasted the cheaper ones with no end in sight. The best wire that will carry the most current and is super flexible is Deans wet noodle.
Dan
I might be a little late to the party… but I have been tackling this same problem. How to power a tx1 off a battery. I am mounting it as an embedded system on a quadcopter which can supply 24volts. I have taken a Drok 24 to 12v (5 amp) converter and attached to the output a 5 amp automotive fuse (just to be safe) an connected it to the tx1 via a radioshack type M (2.1X5.5mm) jack. I can confirm that this system provides power to the tx1 without damage or threat thereof. If anyone wants I can add links to the specific items used.
Hi Cnote, if you can share those parts will be welcome, I just need same thing to power my TX1
Thank you
I have been using this voltaic battery [url]https://www.voltaicsystems.com/v72[/url] which has been working on my TX1. I always have to press the power button twice before it will power it on.
But now I just got a new TX1 board which is not turning on using the same battery. This battery can switch between 12V/16V/19V. I have tried each on, verifying the output with a DMM, and no luck so far.
This solution is a little expensive, but it demos very well if appearances matter. I use a RAVPOWER RP-PB14 23000mAh USB brick that has 9/12/16/19V output at up to 4.5A. It comes with the correct connectors to hook up directly to the TX-1 and will operate it all day long. The brick is just a bit smaller than the TX-1 dev board and looks very sleek. On Amazon for $99. Really nice because it can run most laptops and some displays in a pinch. When doing a demo in front of a VC it is very cool to walk in with everything running and have zero setup time.
Just added a 4700µF polarized capacitor between the leads of my battery and now my new TX1 is powering on off the 12V (actually more like 12.7V).
Trumany, where is C36 and what does it do. It does not appear to be labeled on the dev kit board and I don’t see a schematic with it labeled on any of the downloads on the NVIDIA embedded downloads page.
Trumany, yes, “me too” – I can’t find C36, and why would it help?
I’ve had problems with my Jetson-TX1 randomly powering down. It seems to happen when I jiggle the power connector a bit. (Specifically, when I use a different power brick with a slightly different plug.) I added a 4700µF capacitor directly on to J25 (DC power jack), but that didn’t help. Something seems very sensitive to the slightest little glitch in power…
The schematics show that C36 is connected to the base of Q3 which is connected into U4. You can find Q3 and U4 in between the JTAG connector and the SOC module. There are some tiny little caps down there… I certainly don’t have the tools here to re-work those…
According to the schematics, this is boost regulator for creating 12V for PCIe and SATA.
This is probably not the issue, but do be sure your barrel connector is the right size. The JTX1 carrier board uses a 5.5mm x 2.5mm size. There are some very close matches to this size which might actually fit, and work, but not be a “good” fit. For example, these connectors are all listed as 2.5mm x 5.5mm, but the “actual diameter” column of the table shows differences which occur despite having the 2.5x5.5 label:
[url]https://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/connectors-interconnects/barrel-power-connectors/1443096?k=&pkeyword=&pv1954=31&FV=740002%2Cfff40016%2Cfff80518&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=1954&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=500[/url]
I don’t know the “actual diameter” on the carrier board, but this is the info for the specific connector:
[url]http://www.singatron.net/online-category/2dc-g213-b51[/url] (Singatron 2DC-G213-B51)
linuxdev, thats good to know. I’ll make sure to check that actual diameter column in the future. However I think if 5.5mmx2.1mm plugs are mislabeled as 5.5mmx2.5mm (like the ones in your link) then they would be to tight to plug in, not to loose.
Food for thought: The the first time I tried adding a 4700µF I soldered it to the barrel jack connector and everything worked reasonably well. I then moved the capacitor to my power board, with roughly one and a half feet of wire between it and the TX1 and it stopped working. Now I moved the cap back closer to the input of the TX1 and it works. Seems like it might be the inductance of the wires that’s causing the problem in my case.
I have a similar problem. I am using 3S LiPo battery, hooked up to DCDC step up converter to get 19v. Everything is wired properly , but when I press power button nothing happens. And when I press power button 2 times, fan moves for a moment, but still board doesn’t turn on. When I use provided power brick (also 19v) board works fine.
Any suggestions?