did anyone successfully operate jetson on lower voltage environment?

Hi, I try to use my jetson TX2 on my car
I wired to the car and from the multimeter it is reading 13.0 ~ 13.5 voltage
I plugged into the Jetson and the red LED turns on but it doesn’t turn on with the power button
I am not sure if this is because of the low voltage compare to the stock ac-dc power adaptor(19v)
or the car cannot transfer enough amp to operate jetson
any idea about it?

You might try a large capacitor as close to the Jetson as possible, e.g., 10,000 uF. The voltage itself won’t be an issue, car batteries are well within specs (but do beware you might need protection against spikes).

I didn’t wire it to the battery
I wired it to the alternator (acc)

Same concept…there may be a requirement to more tightly control current delivery right at the instant of hitting the “on” button. Wiring tends to have inductance, and alternators more than batteries.

The wall adapter I’m running the Jetson with is 12V, not 19V. Thus, assuming you’re feeding it 12V, it should work fine. But read on.

Pretty sure you didn’t wire it to the alternator. If you did, you might very well have fried your board. The alternator can generate significantly higher voltage than the 13.6V needed to charge the battery, and generally relies on the battery to clamp voltage to a reasonable range. (See the “spike protection” suggestion above.)

If by “acc” you actually mean the power port named “acc” in the car, then that stands for “accessory” and is part of the 12V bus that goes from the battery (and the battery is charged by the alternator when the engine is running.)

Even with a battery in the loop, a car electrical system will swing wildly, especially when cranking the starter (swing low) and when stopping the starter (load dump, swing high.)
Anything that connects to a car should contain a 15V TVS diode or other over-voltage protection, else you may very well temporarily overvolt the thing and fry it. Best is to use a DC/DC converter in buck/boost or SEPIC topology, so you can regulate from “whatever” in to clean 12V out. Put the spike protection before the DC/DC converter.

What you should do now is remove the board from the car, and plug it back into the wall converter. If the board doesn’t start with the plug in the wall, then you know that you fried your development kit by using it in an automotive setting without appropriate protection.

Other things that can go wrong in an automotive setting:

  • A car with closed windows parked in the sun may reach 80 degrees centigrade
  • A car parked outside in the north may reach -40 degrees centigrade
  • A system that malfunctions while someone is driving the car may distract the driver and cause an accident
  • A car's ignition system, or other systems, or the ignition system of a car right next to you on the road, may spew out a lot of harsh EMI that can interfere with unshielded electronics
  • A driver or passenger may step in from a rainstorm, and the interior of the car is sprayed with water.

This list is obviously not comprehensive, but it hopefully suggests why “automotive rated” and “automotive engineering” is different (and more expensive) than “consumer” or “indoors” environments.

thank you for the suggestion. before start the car I didn’t plug in the jetson so my jetson is still not fried. it is running with 19v adaptor right now.
that is right i didn’t wire it into the alternator, I did wire it into the 12v bus.
i am not going to run or leave it in the car. I just need to tap into the can bus and collect some of the data

I figured out the problem
I am not a electrically expert so I don’t know the reason but I found the solution
the GND I used was bad. Even it is reading 13.0v from the multimeter but it couldn’t transfer enough amp
I tested with small 12v led bulb and it lit up perfectly.
so I kept the Vcc that I have used and switch the GND to somewhere else. and boom
the Jetson boots up
thank you for everyone shared their opinion.

Hey, I’m glad you didn’t fry your system! :-)