DIY fix of the broken 5pin usb socket.

Hi.

I have a TX1 with broken 5pin usb socket. (See the picture and the red circle)

The reseller says they dont provide the repair service. I’m thinking about DIY fix using the socket in the following link.
https://www.ebay.com/p/BQLZR-USB-Type-a-Female-Socket-5pin-Set-of-100/1367899450?iid=161723081074

Would it be a good idea to match the small five pins on the socket with the corresponding five small metal surfaces on the board, then apply the glue on the wider metal surfaces right below the small metal surfaces to let the socket and the board stick together?

You’ll need a no-clean solder paste and a hot air rework tool. It is risky if you heat things up too much or for too long…and if you don’t heat it up fast enough and evenly, then you may get part of the solder correct while over/under-heating another part. Practice first. Make sure the air speed is not high enough to blow away the smaller components right next to the socket. If you can, preheat the socket off of the board first…the larger ground contacts absorb heat slower and thus there would be a tendency to overheat to get those contacts soldered.

Heating off the board and then adding the connector with paste already applied is why any kind of tacky glue used for this might not work so well. If you can get a tacky glue used for this purpose it might help, but mostly you should depend on surface tension of the melted paste to center (if setup is correct, then a top side hot air rework should not require any kind of tacky glue for a manually reworked component). I would be more tempted to tack down the small components nearby which might get solder melted.

Too much or too little paste would be a real problem, but some room for error exists because of the solder mask (some excess should just bead away from the mask between traces). If this were in a factory you’d apply the paste to an exact spot with exact thickness via a paste mask (like a thin mylar or metal sheet cut to the right size and with the right thickness to apply with a putty type knife). I don’t know where you’d get a paste mask, but if someone has a good idea on this, then it would improve your odds of success. In a pinch you might be able to print the pattern on an overhead transparency and then hand cut it with a razor or Xacto.

FYI the original part is a USB Micro AB. Make sure the footprint matches the one used by nVidia. The nVidia part is completely surface mount which I have linked a part to below that might work.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/amphenol-fci/10104111-0001LF/609-4053-1-ND/2350359

This is important as it allows the TX1 to act both as a host (with a USB OTG cable) or as a slave (by plugging in a regular Micro USB cable into it. With the part you linked it will most likely only allow the TX1 to act as a slave depending on how the signals are routed within the connector.