Power supply considerations for Jetson Nano Developer Kit

Good catch. Refer to the Jetson Nano Supported Components List. This document specifies Noctua NF-A4x20 5V PWM.

Fortunately I noticed that before I finalized my fan order:) I wanted to mention that I purchased the thinner (10mm) version of the fan as my gut said that’d probably be enough for what I need, and would keep the final project similar. So far it works great, although I don’t have much loaded up except a couple cameras, keyboard and mouse.

I had the exact same worries, and still do, since after plugging my fan header to the Nano, it still won’t work. Did you have to install a specific piece of software or put a jumper somewhere or simply use the barrel jack connector (J48) rather than the micro-USB power supply?

@casparluc – All I did was purchase a 5v version of the Noctua fan, mount it with M.3 screws, and plug-in the fan cable to the fan pins. To get the board to use the barrel power connector you do need to jumper J48 (which was not labeled in the PDF user guide I found, but is labeled on the board itself). If you’re asking whether you can use a fan with the microUSB, I didn’t try that.

On page 5 of the user guide in the top view, J48 is the unlabeled jumper between the camera connector (J13) and the power jack (J25). In the original post and the user guide it says it needs to be jumpered to use the power jack instead of the micro usb connector. As @nvidia91e41 said, it is labeled on the board silkscreen. You will need to supply your own jumper, as one is not included with the developer kit, Adafruit item 3525 might work if you don’t have any spares around.

Thanks for the answer. As it turns out, I was just impatient (or rather expecting the fan to power on at boot time), all it needed was for the combined cpu temperature to reach around 60 degrees Celsius, for the fan to kick in. Knowing that, I’d say it works wonderfully.

I just received my ALITOVE 5V 10A power adapter AL5V10ABK (JC05-10) from Amazon. It requires doing the J48 jumper. I am currently running an IOGEAR Bluetooth 4.0 USB Micro Adapter gbu521 and
Edimax EW-7811UN Wifi adapter. Mouse and keyboard are wired. Currently works well. I had a case 3D printed, but it doesn’t have enough space for a fan, so will need to cut a hole. Even with extra power, I still cannot get DisplayPort to work, only HDMI.

This carrier board looks quite nice. Unfortunately though it violates the first law of carrier boards, which is that they should not be more expensive than the thing they are carrying. Would you buy a $2000 bag for a $1000 camera? Would you pay $10 for a socket for a $5 ATMEGA? I cannot believe they could even think to price it so high, for only marginal improvements. I get actual CPU, GPU, RAM, heatsink, and a board holding all of the above for $100 from NVIDIA – why pay $200 for nothing but some passive components and regulators?

Considering that it’s mostly only marginal improvements from the dev kit, it would be amazingly awesome if NVIDIA copied that carrier board design and sold a “Dev Kit Plus” for $120.

Gigabyte knows what they’re doing. I bought a $136 motherboard for a $375 i7-8700K and a $2000+ GPU. Now that’s a carrier board. Maybe they should start getting into the Jetson Nano business.

You want higher voltage input for the Nano? Try this $15 solution:

I’ve got this problem also, but not with an apple keyboard but with a Logitech K340 Bluetooth keyboard. When the bluetooth dongle is plugged in, the nano powers off while booting and stays off.

hello everyone
how would u guys suggest this 5v 4a power supply??

this one is just 6.95 USD check this please @dusty_nv


edit :


Being in Germany, I purchased a 5V, 3.5A power supply from Conrad. Works fine so far.


Keep in mind that you also need a jumper to short the two header pins J48! (By the way; on page 5 of the user guide, the label for J48 is missing. The two pins are located just below the camera connector.)

I am running mine off of a white Samsung phone charger. It is rated at 2A but I am also powering a USB hub (where my keyboard and mouse are) and an HDMI connector separately so most of that 2A is likely going direct to the board and not peripherals

Thanks, we are fixing this in the next version of the document. Here is a diagram showing it labelled:

Also being in Germany, I got this rather inexpensive (12 € w/o shipping) power supply (rated 5V 4000 mA): https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B004S7U4IO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pounding the device for several hours with 100% CUDA load it works like a charm

I was able to stably run my Nano using a barrel connector to USB cable. It gets lacks data line so when used with a 5v 3A USB phone charger, it doesn’t drop power after a few seconds. This was the issue I was having with most of the high power USB phone chargers. So far running stable on the same charger that failed when using USB to microUSB cable. I still need to test with my USB-C power adapter to see if it is stable.

USB Charger: Innergie ADP-15VH AA
Barrel Connector to USB cable: 18AWG and should be able to handle ~3A.

Thermal throttling is more likely to be the issue…at least watching youtube…

NVM that’s power throttling…the power in CPU performance and wattage.

I’m using a Meanwell GSM25B05-P1J. Works fine but haven’t stress tested it.

Meanwell has a bunch of cheap and good powersupplies if you need more power. https://www.meanwell.com/productSeries.aspx?i=26&c=6#tag-6-26

I recommend the GS25B05-P1J (I personnally misclicked for the “Medical” version haha). Can be bought on Arrow or any big electronic retailer

Sup Dusty!

I’m planning to use my Nano with a LiPo battery. However I’m not quite certain if these regulators are what I should use:




Also, in order to obtain a fine 4a output from those regulators, should I get a 4000mAh battery or higher, right? As voltage, 3S (11.1V) or 4S (14.8V) will get converted to 5V.

Thank you for your help.

Hi Durado, I haven’t used any of those particular regulators, however their specifications would appear to be what you are looking for (5V⎓4A output).

I don’t believe that the mAh capacity of the battery indicates the constant discharge rating that is is capable of. So you should check how many amps the battery is capable of sustaining. I suppose that roughly 2A should work (since this is 11.1V/14.8V). However you might want to account for some efficiency loss in the regulator, so 2-3A or more. I think that minimum requirement should be fairly common in LiPo’s, which typically encounter high rates of discharge in drones and such.

I’m here to report that this $6.49 U.S based free shipping one works great. It took 7 days though, which is 2 days later than expected. It’s free shipping, but just not “FAST 'N FREE”.